Established
in 1988, Mildreds is part of the fabric of vegetarian London, and one of my
favourite restaurants in the city. The first time I went to Mildreds was the
day I handed in my masters dissertation, longer ago than I care to admit. I saw
Simon Amstell at the next table, and had some of the best sweet potato fries I
had ever eaten.
I
have been to Mildreds many times since, and it is consistently excellent. The
menu changes regularly, and contains many vegan and gluten-free options. All of
the wine on their wine list is organic, mostly vegetarian or vegan, and with
biodynamic options. They also serve organic soft drinks.
Mildreds
doesn’t accept bookings, and I recognise that some people can find that
annoying. Personally, I love no-bookings policies. I love the egalitarian-ness
of them. Everyone gets a table, and everyone has to wait. I have never had to wait very long for
a table, and waiting with one of their excellent cocktails is no hardship
(their elderflower martini packs a great punch).
The
last time I went was with my cousin S, a foodie from NYC with an expense
account. We had an excellent meal. For starters I ordered the chargrilled Roman style artichoke heart crostini
with lemon aioli. Their artichoke crostini is quite possibly one of the best
dishes known to man. There just aren’t enough superlatives in the world to
describe how delicious it is. And by ‘Roman style’, they basically mean ‘Jewish
style’.
For main course I had the Sri Lankan sweet potato and cashew nut curry with
yellow basmati rice with peas and coconut tomato sambal. The curry was rich and
well balanced, with a great kick from the sambal. For dessert, S and I shared
the lemon, almond and pistachio polenta cake with pomegranate syrup and yoghurt. The cake was
moist and delicious, and not too sweet.
For
three courses with a shared dessert, cocktails and service, you can expect to
pay around £30 per/head, completely reasonable for a central London restaurant
of such quality.
Mildreds
are publishing a cookbook, which will be available in summer 2015.