an adventure into my cookbook collection: soul-searching, doing things differently & the truths I learn along the way...

deseeding pomegranates is feminine & erotic, unless you hit them with a wooden spoon...

urm..?

Wednesday, 11 January 2012

West African Style Kale, Pineapple & Peanut Stew

I made this dish about a month or so ago, and I have to say that it was one of the most surprising things have ever made. The dinner where it debuted was an interesting event, kind of an African-themed hamster wake. It was a great evening and a good time was had by all I think, and it was a very decent send-off for Coco the hamster.

African food is pretty new to me (apart from North Africa and South African Braai), but after a few of my friends have travelled there and raved about it, I looked into it a bit more. I found this recipe online after searching for kale based, vegan, West-African recipes, and it sounded so so weird and a little bit disgusting, I just had to try it. I was looking for kale recipes as I had discovered on a previous investigation that it is very popular in a range of dishes throughout the world. The recipe is from Mollie Katzen, so not exactly authentic – but as she is the author of one of my first and most beloved cookbooks The Moosewood Cookbook – I knew that it would be worth a try. And I was so right. Now I was really dubious, even as it was cooking I thought that it would be horrible. But then I tasted it, and it was incredible – DELICIOUS!!! sweet, savoury and spicy - flavour combinations that work so well together, in an earthy, hearty and totally new kind of way. This recipe is from Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home, I found it on the website www.veganconnection.com

Serves 4 – very easy. Serve on rice, or couscous, or with flatbread.

Ingredients
1 onion, diced not that small

2 garlic cloves, crushed
Vegetable or other flavourless oil, approx 1 tbsp
1 bunch of kale or Swiss chard (4 cups sliced)
 - I used about 1 and a bit bags of kale from Sainsburys – they are really large but once all the stalks had been picked out, it wasn’t as much as it seemed. Also remember that it cooks down a lot.
2 cups undrained canned crushed pineapple (20-ounce can)
- I used one regular sized can
½ cup peanut butter
- use a few tbsp of hot water to melt it
Generous shakes of Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
 - you need to be able to taste the spice, as it balances the sweetness of the pineapple
handful chopped fresh coriander

salt to taste

big handful crushed skinless peanuts (if using salted peanuts then put less salt in the main dish)
2 or 3 sliced spring onions
(including the green parts)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onions for about 10 minutes adding the garlic about halfway, stirring frequently, they are lightly browned. While the onions and garlic are frying, wash the kale carefully, discarding large stems and any blemished leaves. Of the leaves are whole shred them into 1inch slices.

Add the pineapple and its juice to the onions in the pan along with a tablespoon or 2 of hot water, and bring it to a simmer. Stir in the kale, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring a couple of times, until just tender. Mix in the peanut butter, Tabasco and coriander and simmer for a couple more minutes. Season and serve topped with crushed peanuts, chopped spring onions, fresh coriander and a wedge of lime.

Sunday, 8 January 2012

Sweet and Sour Onions

This recipe comes from a fantastic book called ‘Jewish Traditions Cookbook’ by Marlena Spieler. While it may not have the beautiful prose and history of Claudia Roden’s book (officially one of the best cookbooks ever) it is concise with pictures on ever page, and recipes from all over the world. Marlena writes that this recipe originates from Sicily, and spread to Italy, Greece, Turkey and France when the Spanish took over Sicily and the Jews had to flee. I really do find it incredibly interesting how recipes and flavour combinations have travelled through the world as a result of Jewish history. Claudia herself has a fantastic story about Tunisian Jewish flavours linking back to Portugal and Livorno in Italy, by way of pirates, of course.

As this dish is best served at room temperature, it makes for an incredibly useful side dish – although I reckon it is probably even better when eaten simply with crusty bread and cheese, with little regard for table manners. Also apologies for some of the quantities given, I scaled up the recipe due to the fact that the little onions I found (Sainsburys shallots) come in 400g packs. It makes a fairly decent amount, one large panful. When peeling the onions, various sources recommend blanching them in a similar manner to tomatoes to get the skins off easily, but I just peeled them the regular way and it didn’t seem like so much hassle.

ingredients
800g small onions or shallots, peeled but whole
80ml or so wine vinegar (I used cider vinegar as I didn’t have any)
70ml or so olive oil
60g caster sugar (this is less than the recipe suggested, but you can add a little more if you have a sweeter tooth, for me though it was plenty.
5 tbsp tomato puree
2 pinches each of cinnamon and allspice (I didn’t have any allspice)
2 bay leaves
4 parsley sprigs (I didn’t have any fresh parsley so used some dried instead)
100g (ish) raisins or sultanas
salt and pepper

It really is this easy…
Put all of the ingredients in a saucepan with 500ml water. Bring to the boil and simmer uncovered for 45 mins or so, until the onions are soft and the liquid has thickened and reduced considerably. Remove the bay leaves and parsley sprigs, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Wednesday, 4 January 2012

Oat, Apple and Cinnamon Cookies

My beautiful friends. I cannot even begin to tell you how much I love you. Even if I have never met you before, please know that this is true. I haven’t written here for a while, and I cannot believe how much has changed since then.

I’ve had a pretty crazy few months. Any of you who read my last post way back in November will know that I was feeling quite on edge and uncertain. In fact, I had just been dumped, but in possibly the loveliest way imaginable, leading to a little emotional craziness, or pardon the expression, a ‘mindfuck.’  And then a few weeks later, I was getting soaped up and whipped in a Turkish bath by a hot guy I didn’t know very well!!  Reflecting on the past year and my first post about trying to be less shy and more proactive, my ‘bath’ gained symbolic significance.

And then there was the accident…

It has been 3 weeks and I guess I’m halfway through the physical healing process. Time stopped and I have had to lie low on the adventures for a bit, but I have never felt more loved or more fearless in my life.  About a month or so ago I made these cookies as a thank you for two very special people who gave me some fantastic advice. As the recipient, it was not necessarily my right to chose the currency for services provided, but then, that isn’t how a gift economy works – or so I have been told. And now I am sharing them with you.

These cookies are a little bit like brandy-snaps – lace-like, crunchy caramel with little chunks of chewy apple. And as with my other cookies recipes you really need some silicone paper or some other sort of super non-stick tray. The recipe is from the Jamie Oliver magazine, and they suggest sandwiching two together with a maple buttercream. I think that it would be complete overkill and possibly also ruin the crunch of the cookies. Send me an email if you would like the quantities for the maple buttercream.

Makes approx 25-30, depending on how big you make them, I tend to make double batches

Ingredients
100g butter, at room temperature
100g sugar
50g golden syrup
50g self-raising flour
125g rolled oats/porridge
½ tsp ground cinnamon
50g dried apple, chopped (I used the Sainsburys semi-dried stuff, makes them more interesting)
1 egg yolk, beaten with 2 tbsp cold water

Preheat the oven to 180c (or 170 if using a fan oven) and line 2-3 baking trays – you will probably have to bake the cookies in batches.

Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Melt the butter with the sugar and syrup in a small pan over a low heat and add to the dry ingredients. Stir well and add the yolk mixture, stirring again. Leave to cool slightly.

Spoon teaspoons of the mixture on to the tray leaving plenty of room, and bake them for 10-12 minutes, until golden. Please be aware that like brandy snaps they will be soft when they come out of the oven, but will harden up as they cool down. It is best to get them on to a wire rack as soon as they are cool/hard enough to be peeled off the silicone paper/tray. And put the kettle on.

Monday, 7 November 2011

Greek yogurt with condensed milk and oranges

This recipe comes from Apples for Jam by Tessa Kiros, a great book that focuses on memory and recipes from childhood, that was given to me by T.O.M for my birthday 5 years ago. The reason why Apples for Jam is such a lovely lovely book is that the chapters are arranged according to colour.  This just makes me so happy (and I know someone who it would make me even happier) – I seem to forget it’s arrangement every time, and when I open the book up I smile.  I mean, generally when I am looking for something to cook I am looking for ‘starters’ or ‘things to make tofu more interesting’ and not ‘yellow’ or ‘mulitcoloured stripes’. But it is all just so beautiful that its forgiven – sometimes I think that the world might be a happier place if more people started grouping things in their own special ways.

This recipe is from the chapter ‘orange.’ The more I think about it, orange seems to really sum up how I am feeling at the moment.  Its like being on the edge of a precipice and not really sure what is going to happen – are you going to stop or go? It tells you to get ready, but not necessarily what for. For me it signifies uncertainty and change. My brilliant flatmate Hannah pointed out that orange is possibly the colour that signifies how colour can have meaning, because of its excessive use and multiple meanings. And I think that is just beautiful.

Now this isn’t the most mind-blowing or involved dessert I have ever made, but sometimes a bit of simplicity is a good thing.  The yogurty-pudding base is rich and creamy, the perfect foil for the oranges.  I think that if I was to make this again I would add a little ground cardamom and saffron possibly to give it just the slightest hint of a shrikand (possibly my most favourite dessert ever).

Ingredients
2 whole oranges/ blood oranges – zest one of them
100ml sweetened condensed milk (this is only a small amount of a can – I now have a mug-full of condensed milk in the fridge and no idea what to do with it – all suggestions welcome
300g Greek-style natural yogurt
Serves 4

Cut away the skin from the oranges leaving no pith behind, slice them into substantial wheels and then in half.  Put the slices in a bowl to collect the juices, trying to save as much as possibly that it now currently rolling around the chopping board.  At this point Tessa suggests that you add some sugar to the oranges if they are not sweet enough – I say don’t, the condensed milk is sweet enough and actually a slightly sour orange would probably work better here. 

Put the condensed milk, half the orange zest and the orange juice that has collected under the slices (hopefully about 3 tablespoons-ish) into a jug, and slowly mix with the yogurt.  Cover the mixture and leave it in the fridge for a few hours so that it can settle and become thick and creamy.

Serve artfully in individual glassed layered with the orange slices, and a little of the remaining zest sprinkled over the top.

Monday, 31 October 2011

Aw, you are such a schnitzel!

So this is exciting, its very rare that I cook meat voluntarily, and not on a Shabbat, but this was pretty much an exception, and it was totally worth it. Schnitzels are one of those things that I have always known in theory how to cook, but only actually attempted this one time. 

When I was a teenager and involved in youth movements and other optimistic, wholesome activities, the people who I admired pretty much more than anyone else were my madrichim (counselors). They were like my older siblings, sort of, they were cool and loving and seemingly so secure in their Judaism and future plans. Of course I have since reached and passed their ages myself and I know that this wasn’t true, they just knew how to hide it better. Anyway, one of my madrachot used schnitzel as a term of endearment. If something was cute, she would say something like ‘oh schnitzel’. Since then, I have always associated the two, and schnitzels are cute and comforting.

Apparently in real life they are supposed to be veal, but in my world it is always chicken or turkey. I asked the butcher for turkey escalopes and he carved them for me specially, so they were thin enough.  If yours aren’t, give them a bash to flatten them a bit, or cut them in half lengthways almost the whole way through, and then flatten in a butterfly way.

For 4 decent sized turkey schnitzels you will need:

1 cup flour (or something equivalent during passover)
1-2 eggs, beaten
2 cups breadcrumbs (or matza meal – I used the pre-flavoured garlic breadcrumbs that you can buy in crouton-shakers from kosher shops, and they worked really well)
flavourless cooking oil (not olive!)
salt and pepper
other spices of your choosing

1 very big heavy frying pan
3 dinner plates / wide shallow bowls

1 lemon

Put the flour in one plate, the beaten eggs on another, and the breadcrumbs on the third.  Season the flour with salt and pepper, and add a few other spices depending on what you fancy – I used a bit of sweet paprika and a small amount of chili powder.

Pour oil into the pan about 1cm or so deep and put on to heat – don’t put the schnitzels in until you are sure its really really hot.  You can test this safely by adding in a few crumbs and seeing how quickly they start to sizzle.

Coat each escalope first in the flour, then egg and then crumbs, making sure there is an even coating.  I strongly recommend making these at least half an hour or so in advance so that you can put them in the fridge at this point.  This allows them to firm up, so that the coating is less likely to fall off when you put them in the hot oil. Add them to the pan carefully making sure that they don’t splash oil.  Fry on each side until its golden brown, about 5 minutes or so.  I like a few crunchy parts, but I leave that to your judgement. When they are done to your liking, remove them from the pan and leave on some kitchen paper or equivalent so that the excess oil can soak away.  If you are not serving them immediately, they will stay relatively crisp if you put them on tray in a medium hot oven for a little bit.  Serve with lemon wedges. And chips. 
Yum.





Saturday, 22 October 2011

Lime and coconut lentil curry

I learnt to really love lentils in university, when my fantastic housemate Simon showed me how to properly cook them, and the many, magical ways that such a simple and cheap ingredient could be used. We would make massive vats of them and eat nothing but lentils for days. They seem to have the ability to soak up so many different kinds of flavours.  This recipe may seem a bit more involved than others, but believe me its worth it. And really do roast and grind the spices, the difference in taste from ready-ground is massive. If you can eat them, and have the time, it really is worth adding the eggs, delicious and perfect protein hit.

Ingredients

100g green lentils
1 can coconut milk, with water added to make up 1 pint of liquid
1 rounded tsp lime pickle, lumps chopped up
juice and zest of ½ a fresh lime
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 red chilli, chopped
2 fat cloves of garlic, crushed
2.5 cm piece of ginger, grated/chopped finely
veg oil

3 cardamom pods
1 level tsp cumin seeds
1 level tsp fennel seeds
1 level dessertspoon coriander seeds
1 rounded tsp turmeric powder
1 level tsp fenugreek powder
salt

4 eggs

large heavy-bottomed frying pan with a lid

heat the frying pan and when hot add the whole spices and dry-roast for 2-3 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time.  As soon as they start to jump/colour remove from the heat and tip into a mortar and grind.

Put the oil in the pan and heat, when very hot and add the onions and let sizzle and brown at the edges for about 4 minutes, then turn the heat down and add the chilli, ginger, garlic and lime pickle, along with the turmeric and fenugreek powders.  Then add the ground roasted spices and give a good stir.

Next add the lentils, lime zest and coconut liquid, stir and bring to a simmer, then turn the heat down.  Put the lid on and allow to simmer as gently as possible for 45 minutes.  Check from time to time and see if it needs a little more water.

10 minutes before its ready, boil the eggs for 6-7 minutes and peel.  Then the curry is ready, season and add lime juice, stick the peeled eggs and leave everything to cook through for a couple more minutes with the lid on.

Panzanella

An Italian tomato and bread salad

After a little hiatus, I am back again with another guest blogger, my amazing Mum. As you will notice, I have been sitting on this for a while, for no other reason than my disorganization.  This was made in the middle of our lovely little heatwave in September, just nearing the end of the tomato and pepper season.  One of the things that I am so incredibly grateful for is that my parents always have interesting things growing in the garden, teaching me from an early age the importance of seasonality, and how much better things taste when you grow them yourself. Every year there always seems to be one thing that grows really well, and we find ourselves scratching our heads trying to work out with the bounty, and sending every guest home with a bag of some home grown veg. this year we had incredible tomatoes and peppers, and this recipe is the perfect showcase for them.  Even though the key ingredients aren’t in season anymore this salad is sooo good – I’m going to recommend that you make it anyway, right now.

Panzanella for me seems to symbolize summertime.  I have noticed over the past few years that over the summer every tv chef will do a recipe for a panzanella, and yet it was only this year that I tried it for myself.  What is so wonderful about it is its simplicity – Nikki Segnit suggests a version with brussel sprouts – shudder and walk away slowly.  Wikipedia describes it as “a Florentine salad of bread and tomatoes popular in the summer. It includes chunks of soaked stale bread and tomatoes, sometimes also onions and basil, dressed with olive oil and vinegar. The 16th-century artist and poet Bronzino sings the praises of onions with oil and vinegar served with toast and, and is often interpreted as a description of panzanella.

And so now for the recipe, thanks Mum.

I was pondering what to make for supper when I remembered having made this salad fairly recently and thought it would be good for dinner. For the life of me I couldn’t remember what I had done, but of course Miriam the gastronaut did. So I duly bought the ingredients that I didn’t already have, even braving Asda on a Sunday afternoon, such was my craving.
This is a particularly great dish for this time of the year (mid-September) as having had a very bountiful season in the greenhouse I have loads of delicious home grown tomatoes and peppers.

Ingredients (serves 4 as a starter)

* The equivalent of one smallish loaf of bread, (stale is fine, good way of using up old bread)
* 7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
* 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
* 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
* 6-8 tomatoes (the better the tomatoes, the better the salad!)
* 2 small or 1 large pepper any colour except green
* 2 crushed cloves of garlic
* A generous scattering of black olives
* A handful of drained and rinsed capers
* A well-drained can of anchovies, separated into fillets
* Handful of basil, preferably just picked from the plant on the windowsill

Cut up the bread into chunks, if it isn’t stale toast it in a hot oven for 10 mins or so. Don’t walk away and leave it as I did and nearly destroyed it! Put the dry bread into a flat dish large enough to take it in one layer. Mix the garlic with the oil and vinegar and sprinkle this concoction over the bread. Season to taste and toss it all gently together.

Blanch the tomatoes with boiling water and then remove the skins. Take out the seeds and put these together with any juices running all over your chopping board on the bread. Roughly chop the tomatoes and put in another bowl. Grill the peppers under a high heat to make the skins blacken and blister, turn them regularly to ensure an all over char. When they are done put them in a bag and leave them to cool. When they are cool enough to handle, the skins should easily peel off. Then cut open the peppers, discard the seeds and slice them up. Make sure you capture any juices and tip these on to the bread. The peppers can then go into the same bowl as the tomatoes.

Then gently mix the bread and everything else (not the basil). Depending on how organised/hungry you are now cling film it and leave it for an hour to marinate at room temperature. I am waging war against people who serve this sort of thing straight from the fridge - don’t it kills the flavour. Put the basil on just before you eat it. Enjoy!
By the way used up the leftovers the following day, broke an egg on the top and nuked it in the microwave until the egg was just set. Yummy, like an instant shakshuka.

Produce from the Lewis garden 2011 - peppers, tomatoes and chillis